In the 13th century a daily vegetable market was held at Campo das Cebolas. It is also from this time that the square owes its name. Campo das Cebolas literally translates to “onion field”.
From parking lot to chill field
As long as I can remember, Campo das Cebolas was a parking lot from where you could easily walk into
Alfama.
With the redevelopment of the boulevard on the Tagus river, this parking lot has disappeared and has made way for a square with two green areas with playgrounds for children.
The playground
The playground is a bit boring, on each lawn there is one play set. It is nice that they are on a lawn, that way the parents can chill in the sun next to them and still keep an eye out.
The view of Alfama
From Campo das Cebolas you have a nice view of Alfama.
Right in front of the square is the peculiar house Casa dos Bicos. The house is not to be missed with the stone peaks on the façade. The house dates back to the 15th century and is one of the few buildings that survived the 1755 earthquake.
The house is owned by the José Saramago Foundation. They strive to preserve and promote the life and work of this renowned Nobel Laureate for Literature.
Next to Casa dos Bicos is a yellow house called Casa das Varandas. The house has been badly damaged by the earthquake of 1755. The old iron balcony fences are still authentic and date back to the 15th century.
Above the houses, Sé de Lisboa is clearly visible, a magnificent sight!