In less than 45 minutes, at about 27 miles from Lisbon, you can reach the most beautiful beach in Portugal, perhaps in Western Europe: Praia da Adraga. At the end of a narrow, winding road that leads you from the N247 through the town of Almoçageme, you are met by a beautiful, wild and at first sight pristine beach. The characteristic rock arch on the left side of the beach, the always strong waves and the rocks protruding from the sea on the right, all of that paints a perfect picture.
Of course Adraga is not as pristine as it once was. Here, too, people try to keep the rocks on the left and right in check by stretching large pieces of gauze over them. It is clear that this is necessary: large pieces of stone have come down in the past.
Luis’s tip (72)
“As a teenager, I liked to come to this beach. I walked on the beach with friends, talking about the meaning of life. And sometimes, very occasionally, we also met girls.”
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The beach
Praia da Adraga is a real beach for locals. You will see people all year round who are walking their dog, and in the morning you can see the local fishing club with large rods pulling all kinds of goodies from the sea. In the afternoon, when the sun is higher and the temperatures are even more pleasant, the families come to Praia da Adraga. Most of the time they’re not there for a swim, the sea here on the Atlantic coast can be pretty rough even in calm weather. But the beach itself is wonderful for playing with the children.
You will occasionally find some surfers on Praia da Adraga. The waves are decent enough. But it is certainly not as crowded with surfers as Praia do Guincho.
Hidden beach and caves
On the south side of the beach, hidden behind the rocks of the arch, there is a long sprawling corridor with a small beach in front of it.
Here you can go with low tides. Be careful, the caves are pitch black and the waves come down on the beach with quite a lot of force. We certainly do not recommend laying down a towel with your family here!
Hiking
Both on the left and right of the beach you will find large rocks, which provide for some really spectacular hiking. The route runs to Praia das Maçãs in the North and all the way to Cabo da Roca in the south.
Restaurante D’Adraga
Right on the beach you will find Restaurante D’Adraga where time seems to have stood still as well. The restaurant is decorated with a classic (some would say “old-fashioned”) interior, and on the wall you will find old ship’s rudders and the like. A bit corny perhaps, but in this setting it works perfectly well!
The food at Restaurante D’Adraga is great! About five or six years ago you could have lunch here for less than £27. Unfortunately, that is no longer possible in 2018. For Portuguese standards, the menu here is quite expensive. But it is worth it! Both the fish and the meat dishes are fabulous, and the mousse de chocolate is deliciously soggy, as it should be.
Lunch or diner? Get a reservation!
Since a year or two it is essential to get a reservation for lunch or diner. We’ve been standing in the doors of this restaurant in vain a few times already, only to be told that it would take at least half an hour before we could get a table.
From Lisbon to Praia da Adraga by car
From Lisbon take the A5 highway towards Cascais. At the end of the A5 you take the N9-1 towards Malveira. Once in Malveira da Serra, the N9-1 turns into the N247 between Cascais and Sintra. Follow the direction Colares / Sintra and take the exit at Almoçageme. From there it’s easy, you just follow the signs Praia da Adraga.