In the heart of Portugal, about an hour north of Lisbon, lies Caldas da Rainha – a charming town known for its thermal baths, rich artistic traditions, and relaxed atmosphere. The name literally means ‘Queen’s Hot Springs’, directly referring to the city’s origin.
A royal origin
The history of Caldas da Rainha begins in the 15th century, when Queen Leonor (wife of King João II) saw people bathing in natural hot springs during a journey through the area. Fascinated by the healing powers of the water, she had a hospital built around the springs in 1485. This hospital – the oldest thermal hospital in the world still in operation – became the heart of the town.
Thermal tradition
To this day, the therapeutic springs are an essential part of Caldas da Rainha. The water, rich in sulfur and minerals, is used to treat various conditions, from rheumatism to skin problems. In the city center, you’ll find thermal spas and the impressive old hospital complex, which now serves as a museum.
The location of Caldas da Rainha makes it a perfect base for day trips to nearby attractions such as the medieval town of Óbidos, the beach of Foz do Arelho, and the surfing waves of Nazaré. The Lagoa de Óbidos, a lagoon between land and sea, is also ideal for water sports and nature walks.
A city of ceramics and humor
In addition to its thermal tradition, Caldas da Rainha is known as a center for ceramics and visual arts. The town gained fame thanks to artists like Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro, who in the 19th century created humorous and sometimes risqué ceramic works. That sense of humor is still very much alive. Much to the amusement of our 6- and 9-year-old daughters, ceramic representations of male genitals appear all over town. They’re displayed on market stalls, in souvenir shops, and even featured in street art. For children, of course, this was a never-ending source of giggles.
How did these eye-catching artworks end up here? According to local legend, the tradition began when King Dom Luís I (who reigned from 1861 to 1889) visited Caldas da Rainha and asked the famous artist Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro to create something different from the usual pottery.
Bordalo Pinheiro, known for his satirical flair, casually grabbed a piece of clay and sculpted a male organ. And just like that, a new form of humorous pottery was born – one that still leaves a cheerful mark on the city today.
Local atmosphere and markets
Caldas da Rainha has a lively and authentic atmosphere. On the charming Praça da Fruta, the town’s central square, a daily market is held where farmers and artisans sell fresh produce and handmade goods. It’s one of the oldest open-air markets in Portugal and offers a wonderful glimpse into daily life in the town.
