Food & Drinks


The Portuguese in general and Lisboetas in particular take eating and drinking very seriously. How seriously? That’s difficult to explain in a few sentences, you’ll just have to experience that for yourself.Gepofte kastanjes en Geropiga eten & drinken in Lissabon

It starts with coffee

Something as normal to us as just having a coffee for instance. In Lisbon they make a complete ritual out of it: a bica (that’s Portuguese for an espresso), always comes with at least two servings of sugar (Portuguese sugar bags sometimes contain up to 10g!).And if possible, always take your bica outside your house, in your favorite coffee place. Drinking a bica usually doesn’t take more than 5 minutes: ordering, chugging the bica away, paying and off you go!By the way, paying? Get ready for a treat, because for an average coffee you’ll pay no more than 60 to 90 cents. Everything over one euro is a tourist price.

Tip of the veil: Bacalhau

Bacalhau in de winkelAnd did we mention that Portuguese have at least 365 ways to prepare Bacalhau (salt cod)? That’s right, a different recipe each day. That’s saying something, right?And then we haven’t mentioned the wines. Or port wines. Or aguardente. Or pastéis de nata. Or Bife à Portuguesa. Or sardines from the barbecue, smoked chestnuts on the street or mousse de chocolate and salame de chocolate. All extremely tasty food & drinks and all extremely Portuguese! In short, eating and drinking in Lisbon (and surroundings) is a lifestyle in and of itself. We checked out a lot of places that serve typical, traditional Portuguese food and beverages.These are our favorite spots.




The whole city smells like chestnuts

MWith the arrival of São Martinho on November 11, you can see the chestnut sellers in the streets with their mobile carts, full of roasted chestnuts. That can mean only one thing: chestnut time has started in Portugal! Eating chestnuts in Lisbon The carts are often installed at busiest spots…

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Rui dos Pregos – pregos and seafood

Ruidospregos prego en bier

If you’re as fond of pregos and shellfish as we are, then Restaurante Rui dos Pregos is definitely a place you must have been at least once in your life. Actually, this place is a combination of a cervejaria and a marisqueira. Rui dos Pregos is one of the classics…

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Going for coffee in Lisbon – serious business!

Koffie - cimbali apparaat

Do you like coffee? And do you want to get through your holiday in Lisbon without the stress of not knowing how to order a coffee the right way? Then stop what you were doing right now and read on with due attention, for this article will tell you everything…

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Tascardoso – rustic and informal restaurant

Tascardoso - ingang

There are many traditional restaurants in the centre of Lisbon. One of our favourites is restaurant Tascardoso. This small, rustic and informal restaurant is located opposite Jardim do Príncipe Real. The restaurant serves traditional Portuguese cuisine, which is served quickly and hassle-free. Tasca Tascardoso is a typical tasca where you…

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O Talho – butcher and restaurant rolled into one

O Talho - gordijn

If you’re a meat lover then this restaurant is just the thing for you because restaurante O Talho (the Butcher) is completely focused on meat. And best of all, they have a butcher’s shop next to the restaurant where you can buy meat. 2-in-1 shop Since we weren’t familiar with…

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A Padaria Portuguesa – the bakery near you

A padeira principe real

In practically every district of Lisbon you’ll find at least one branch of A Padaria Portuguesa. The first establishment was opened in 2010 with the aim of reviving the tradition of good bakers, in a modern way. In recent years, the company has grown enormously and you can find A…

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Pastelaria Alcôa – convent candy

Pastelaria Alcôa overicht

When we think of Pastelaria Alcôa, we don’t think of a traditional pastelaria with clattering coffee dishes and locals who order a bica en bolo for breakfast at the bar. No, Pastelaria Alcôa is better described as a patisserie. The master confectioner is a multi award winning chef at several…

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Zé da Mouraria – hidden pearl in Mouraria

Ze de Mouraria - restaurant

A hidden gem in the centre of Lisbon: tucked away in a narrow street in the Mouraria district you can find the Zé da Mouraria restaurant. The restaurant is small and filled with locals. The menu mainly has typical Portuguese food. Quite pricey, no? Some of our friends advised us…

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Bairro do Avillez – the chef’s district

Bairro do Avillez - ingang

Bairro do Avillez is one of the newest hotspots located in Chiado and the most recent restaurants of famous chef José Avillez in Lisbon. Bairro Avillez has several dining options, of which Taberna is our favourite. Bairro do Avillez (Avillez district) is named after this famous chef and was inspired…

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Pastelaria Orion – sharing sweets with locals

Orion - ingang

Pastelaria Orion is just around the corner from Ascensor da Bica on the busy road from the Chiado district towards Estrella. When you walk by and look inside you’ll usually only find locals there, enjoying all the culinary goodness Pastelaria Orion offers. De pastelaria bestaat sinds 1945 en is nog…

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Pastelaria Versailles – old soul in young pastelaria

Versailles - bar naar achter

Even though Pastelaria Versailles is one of the oldest pastelarias in Lisbon, compared to the city centre of Lisbon this pasteleria is not super old. Pastelaria Versailles was opened in 1922. Even though that’s less than a 100 years old, the interior suggests otherwise. Pleasant and hard times In the…

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Chapitô à mesa – circus school with view

Chapito gevel

Chapitô à mesa is Lisbon’s circus school, which may not make you think about one of the most beautiful views of the city. But here it is: almost perched against the walls of Castelo de São Jorge you’ll find Chapitô à mesa. Chapitô is known for its strong cultural, educational…

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Ginjinha sem Rival – have a ginjinha without rivals

Ginjinha Sem Rival - bord met drank

Ginjinha Sem Rival literally means Ginjinha without a rival. It’s funny that this little bar is called this way, because just a stone’s throw away you’ll find enough other Ginjinha bars. Maybe they think they’re without any competition… We don’t think it matters much if you get your Ginja at…

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Bolo do Rei – traditional Christmas cake from Lisbon

If you spend Christmas holidays in Lisbon you will notice that in the average Portuguese family the Christmas party is not complete without a Bolo do Rei (King’s Cake) on the table. DThe Bolo do Rei, a traditional Portuguese cake, has its origin in French, from the galette des rois….

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Pavilhão Chinês – a bar or a museum?

Pavilhão Chinês barman

If you want a unique experience in Lisbon’s nightlife, head on over to Pavilhão Chinês. This is probably one of the most bizarre bars you’ve ever been to. Pavilhão Chinês is one of the most interesting and unusual bars we’ve ever seen! From grocery store to cocktail bar What was…

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A Merendinha do Arco – where time still stands still

Merendinha do Arco gevel

Hidden just behind the Rossio Arco is Merendinha do Arco, a restaurant where, despite the many tourists in this part of the city, you almost only encounter Lisboetas. It is one of our favorite Tascas (Portuguese local eateries) in downtown Lisbon, it feels like a ‘secret escape’ between the many…

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Pub Lisboeta – quiet neighbourhood pub

Pub Lisboeta bord

The relaxed Pub Lisboeta, is a lovely little pub where you can catch your breath from a (mid)day of strolling through the city of Lisbon. Pub Lisboeta is located in our favorite neighbourhood Príncipe Real which is a nice bonus when we go there for a drink. Cocktails, beer &…

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O Velho Eurico – in the heart of Alfama

O Eurico - buitenkant

** Update May 2019 Due to the poor health of the owner, the restaurant is permanently closed ** Looking for typical Portuguese food in a typical Portuguese restaurant in the heart of the typical Portuguese Alfama neighbourhood? Then Restaurante O Eurico is the place to go. This typical Portuguese restaurant…

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PARK Bar – unique rooftop with beautiful views

PARK rooftop uitzicht met terras

Discovering new, surprising places in Lisbon is one of our favourite activities during our trips to this beautiful city. On the edge of the Bairro Alto on the top floor of a parking garage, we discovered an interesting rooftop bar: PARK bar. As we walked into the parking garage we…

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Duque Brewpub – Craft beer in Lisbon

Portugal is of course best known for its excellent wines and all kinds of (often home-distilled) spirits. But the last years the craft beer movement is slowly developing here. A clear exponent of this is Duque Brewpub. Duque Brewpub opened its doors in the Chiado in February 2016. The story…

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Frankie – where hotdog enthusiasts gather

At Frankie you don’t just eat a hot dog. This is the place every hot dog lover in the world dreams about! Frankie is close to the university of Lisbon and you’ll notice that when you come here for a delicious hot dog. Rush hour There are always people coming…

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Bairru’s Bodega – quiet wine bar in Bairro Alto

Most people know this about the Bairro Alto district: the later it gets, the more noise it produces. Loud music from bars or people talking (loudly) in the streets. What I missed was a place where they serve good wine and where you can have a good conversation. We found…

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Restaurante Pharmacia – playing doktor

Restaurante Pharmacia inganghek

Restaurante Pharmacia is located in a former hospital in the Santa Catarina district. The restaurant shares the property with Museu da Farmácia (Pharmacy Museum). The building seems enormous, but if you eat in the restaurant you will be surprised by how cozy the restaurant is. The whole look and feel…

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Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau – say cheese!

We love the Bacalhau pastries that you can usually get at any pastelaria. This is something different though, Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau serves a very special Pastel de Bacalhau! For years we usually walked past this bacalhau pastelaria in the Baixa and never visit it, because I always…

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Tease – cupcake heaven in Lisbon

Tease Cais do Sodre binnen

There is nothing Portuguese about Tease. If you’ve had enough of typical Portuguese sweetness and you’re craving for a ‘normal’ pie, then Tease is a great place to go. Another big advantage of Tease is that it is located in one of my favorite neighborhoods: Príncipe Real. If you want…

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Restaurante Central – classic village restaurant

Restaurante Central is a place where I (and my family) have been coming for years now, and it has never disappointed me. Well, maybe on Thursdays, when I again forget that that’s the only day they are closed. Restaurante Central is located in Colares, near the beautiful Sintra. Nice staff…

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Confeitaria Cistér – clattering coffee cups

The sound of coffee cups and saucers clattering together as a result of cleaning up the dishes reminds me a lot of those real old-fashioned pastelaria. I have visited many pastelarias in my life and I get very sentimental when I hear that specific sound. Upon entering the pastelaria Confeitaria…

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Nannarella – Italian ice cream in São Bento

There is always a queue at Nannarella. Which is no wonder, because the ice cream there is simply delicious. This ice cream shop has been around since 2013 and is located in the São Bento district. It doesn’t matter what time you come here, there are always locals in line…

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Embaixada – alternatief shoppen

If you come to Lisbon to do some shopping, then Embaixada is definitely a place that you shouldn’t miss. At this moment this beautiful building is used as a concept store with many (pop-up) shops. According to locals this is one of the better places in Lisbon to discover new…

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Restaurante O Apeadeiro – dining among locals

If you’re looking for good and tasty local food in the heart of tourist Sintra, then go to Restaurante O Apeadeiro. The restaurant is easy to miss, because from the outside there’s not much to look at. It looks small but when you are inside and walk past the bar,…

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Veneziana – oldest ice cream shop

Tucked away in a corner near Praça dos Restauradores you will find Veneziana. This is the smallest and oldest ice cream parlour I have seen in Lisbon. The store is small, but the terrace is normally gigantic. Currently (and unfortunately for the owner of Veneziana), a few buildings next to…

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Amorino – that’s some fancy ice cream

Ice cream store Amorino describes herself best: Amorino is celebrating love with a gourmet touch. We are sold! Amorino has three different stores across Lisbon. Two are located in the Baixa and Chiado districts. And there’s also a branch in the Vasco da Gama shopping centre on the former expo…

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Ice time – the best ice cream shops

In the past, when I went to Lisbon with my parents, ice cream shops hardly existed. At the few ice cream shops that were there, you paid premium for 1 scoop of ice cream. And often the scoop was just a bit too watery and therefore not that tasty. Luckily,…

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Gelato Davvero – Rome ice cream in Lisbon

This is how Lisboetas describe it: at Gelato Davvero you’ll find a bit of Rome in Lisbon. Less than three years ago, their first ice cream shop was opened at Cais do Sodré. Soon enough five more stores followed in Lisbon and another four outlets outside the city. This is…

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Typical Portuguese food – posta Mirandesa

If there’s one thing for which I can wake my Portuguese friends Isabel and Luis, it’s posta Mirandesa. Well, when it’s prepared in a very good restaurant, that is. Isabel is the best Portuguese cook I know, but she doesn’t do this dish. Not because she can’t, but because the…

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Vegetarian food in Lisbon

About 10 years ago it was almost impossible to find a vegetarian restaurant in Lisbon. If you wanted to eat vegetarian, the salade mista (salad with tomato, cucumber and carrot) or an omelette was the best option on the menu. Foto: Terra Nowadays there are more and more vegetarian restaurants…

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Gelado Artisani – homemade ice cream

Gelados Artisani - ijs

The first branch of Gelado Artisani was opened in 2009, near Jardim da Estrela. With the opening of this ice cream shop, Gelado Artisani responded to the trend of the past: Homemade ice cream with fresh ingredients. Natural ingredients, many flavors Artisani claims to use only the best ingredients for…

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Pink Street – rua Nova do Carvalho

Rua Nova do Carvalho, is better known with tourists as Pink Street. Currently it is one of the most famous and favorite nightlife areas of locals, but you will also find tourists there. The bars in Bairro Alto in Bairro Alto close earlier than in Rua Nova do Carvalho, making…

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RC Restaurante – value for money!

We love to stroll through Alfama and discover new places. And on this particular day we walked from the Pantheon land passed the tiny RC Restaurante near Santa Apolónia station. We noticed this restaurant because it is indicated on the outside of the restaurant that a menu costs only €5…

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Pastéis de Nata Test – Our Top 11

A Pastel de Nata is one of the tastiest sweets available in Portugal (pastel is singular, pastéis is plural). The origin of this cream pastry comes from the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos. In the abbey of this monastery the nuns used egg white as a starch of their clothing. The egg…

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